Every experiment needs a control, so start off with NV's from Moet, Veuve, L-P and P-J. First 3 are much as remembered. Good, solid all rounders aimed at mass appeal but lacking much in the way of individuality. Perrier-Jouet, on the other hand, has definitely changed. It used to have a lovely, crisp green apple quality to it. Now it is distinctly sweet. The dosage has been raised to 11.5 grams per litre (high for a Brut). The agent told me it was designed to appeal to "the Ladies". So, sexual stereotyping is alive and well in France then! This smacks of wine being made by PR consultants, not vignerons. Come on, P-J! You should be better than this.
It all confirmed to me that we were right last year to drop all the big Grande Marques to focus on smaller, independent producers. The one exception we made was Billecart-Salmon, and it was to their table that I repaired to recover my equilibrium.
"Billy" is one of the smaller Grande Marques, still in the hands of the family that founded it in 1818. The quintessential hallmarks of their wines are elegance, finesse and subtlety.
First the Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV, a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meurnier from 3 different vintages, a blend unchanged since 1945 (P-J, please note.)-Light, floral nose with a touch of honeyed nuttiness.
-Fine, fresh mouth filling palate with good lemony acidity underscored by some toastiness. Outstandingly well balanced.
Next the Billecart-Salmon Blancs de Blancs NV, Chardonnay from 5 Grand Cru vineyards that spends 3 years on its lees.
-Very persistent mousse
-Lemon & honey on the nose with a hint of almonds
- Interesting salty tang. Chalky minerality (think Chablis rather than Cote d'Or). Floral, biscuity. Long and elegant.
Finally the Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois 2000. Named after the founder of the House, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vinified in cask.
-Good deep gold colour
-Delicate nose of apples and pears. Mineral notes again.
-Great palate weight; honey, toffee, coffee all balanced by fresh acidity. Wonderful.
Sadly their delicious Rose was not on show. So much better than L-P. Cheaper too.
Only one of our small producers was present. The house of Jean Moutardier is situated in the village of Le Breuil in the Vallee de Surmelin, about 20kms west of Epernay. This is Pinot Meunier country, which Moutardier specialise in, 80% of their 18 hectares of vines being planted with this variety. Under the guidance of Englishman, Jonathon Saxby (who had the very good sense to wed Elizabeth Moutardier), they produce annually some 300,000 bottles of remarkably distinctive wines. These wines are not designed to appeal to the widest common denominator. They are wines of a very forceful personality that speak of a particular place and character. If you like your Champagne big and bold, you'll love them.
First up, Jean Moutardier Carte d'Or Brut NV. 85 % Pinot Meunier, 15% Chardonnay.-Lovely yeasty nose, lots of fruit, peaches, apples, white grapes.
-Great weight in the mouth. Quite fruity backed by honey and coffee. Powerful stuff held together with a good lick of acidity.
Next Jean Moutardier Vintage 2000. Same 85/15% blend.
-More pronounced yeast on the nose. Reminiscent of Marmite.
-A more refined palate. Toasty flavours. Ginger cake? Good acidity. Great persistence. Really lovely stuff.
Finally, Jean Moutardier Pur Meunier Brut Nature NV. 100% Pinot Meunier, Zero dosage. Blended from 3 vintages.
-One for the Calvinists amongst us. Very austere. Green apples, lemon, quite persistent oak notes. My first reaction was negative, but then I considered that, while I would not wish to drink this by itself, give me a plate of fresh oysters and we'd have a heavenly marriage.
Amongst the rest, the outstanding wine for me was the Jacquesson Blancs de Blancs 1997 which had a lovely nutty, raisiny nose reminiscent of good dry Amontillado and a palate of great depth and length showing coffee, toffee and figs. A real Desert Island wine.
A great day all round.
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment